@article{0c6deb22c4754f698b9a9fc4b4c9587a,
title = "Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections",
abstract = "We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.",
author = "Eytan Meisner and Mariano Galvagno and David Andrade and Dan Liberzon and Raphael Stuhlmeier",
note = "Funding Information: The authors would like to thank the anonymous reviewers of this manuscript for numerous helpful suggestions. R.S. and D.A. were funded by EPSRC Grant No. EP/V012770/1. R.S. gratefully acknowledges funding from an IMA QJMAM Fund Grant supporting research visits by M.G. to the University of Plymouth, and a UUKi UK-Israel Mobility Award supporting collaboration with Technion's Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering. E.M. gratefully acknowledges the financial support by the scholarships from the Nancy and Stephen Grand Technion Energy Program and the funding by SolarEdge Technologies Ltd., as part of the Guy Sela Memorial Project at the Technion. Publisher Copyright: {\textcopyright} 2023 Author(s).",
year = "2023",
month = jun,
day = "1",
doi = "10.1063/5.0149980",
language = "English (US)",
volume = "35",
journal = "Physics of Fluids",
issn = "1070-6631",
publisher = "American Institute of Physics Publising LLC",
number = "6",
}
