On the Alber equation for shoaling water waves

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Abstract

The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters.</jats:p>
Original languageEnglish (US)
JournalJournal of Fluid Mechanics
DOIs
StatePublished - Nov 25 2021

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Applied Mathematics
  • Oceanography
  • Statistical and Nonlinear Physics

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